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CONtENTS
Textile Heritage
Women and children of the revolution
A brief spinning history
Textiles folklore & tradition
Sámi traditional indigenous clothing
Derwent Valley Cotton Mills
Textile ethnography
Textiles are a source of cultural identity and traditions, which holds key information and clues about the trade routes, economy and culture of a region and the environment of the local communities and societies that have evolved through this. Textile knowledge has progressed into an artistic heritage enabling cultures to further tell their story. www.cultursmag.com.
As it is not possible to travel back in time to the early 18th Century to gain full access to the lives of women in the mills, the next best thing is to become embedded in the ethnography of its living history.
By studying and participating in the social and cultural lives of the history and local community, it is possible to see firsthand the significance and engagement with the Mills, and gain a unique understanding of this particular social setting. I have been very fortunate to do some of this research at Masson Mills in the Derwent Valley a place renowned for its cotton spinning throughout the industrial revolution and beyond.
The industrial revolution had a significant impact on the domestic industries in Derbyshire, though seemingly incomprehensible through this historic lens, the reality of the textile industry is very prevalent for many women today.
A BRIEF SPINNING HISTORY
It is impossible to state exactly when the first spinning wheel was created, as many cultures have shown variants for methods of spinning wheel, many have laid claim they theirs is the 'first' invention, and though many have some significance to the evolution of spinning and textile practice, however, spinning fibres has been prevalent throughout history. For example, a distaff and spindle have been noted as historic methods since the neolithic era.
James Hargreaves (1720-1778) an English weaver, from Lancashire, invented the spinning jenny in 1764, which was later adapted by Samuel Crompton in 1779 who combined the Jenny with Arkwrights water frame to make the infamous 'Cotton Spinning Mule' one of which can be seen at Masson Mills.
TEXTILE FOLKLORE and tradition
Myths, legends and fairy tales all have a similar narrative where textile production and garnments hold magical semblance. From sleeping beauty and the fateful spindle, or the millers daughter in Rumplestiltskin who spin straw into gold with the help of a magical creature, to regional symbolism, for example the Norwegian Selbu star (see fair isle pattern) or the traditional Sámi Kofte (gákti). In these stories, textiles often represent fate, identity or loyalty.
Spiders also have a significance in textiles and cultural folklore, obviously as the weaving process starts with spinning, for example, the legend of the christmas spider and of course, Arachne.
The story of Arachne is told in Greek mythology, by Ovid's Metamorphoses. Arachne, a skilled weaver, was challenged to a weaving contest with Athena. According to this legend, Arachne wove a tapestry showing the love affairs of the gods. The Goddess was enraged at her rival’s work, the reasons why depend on which version of the story you read.
Athena destroyed Arachne’s tapestry, and in despair Arachne hung herself. However, the Athena released the noose, which then became a cobweb, and Arachne was changed into a spider.
The etymology of 'Arachne' translates to “spider” in Greek, and the word Arachnida is a zoological term.
Moirai or the mythical 'Fates' are three goddesses Clotho, Lachesis, and Atropos who supposedly shaped the destiny of humans. Their role was to ensure that every mortal beings destiny was fulfilled as assigned to them by the laws of the universe. The Fates are often represented with differing versions in textile metaphors, generally symbolised as beautiful women, though have also been represented as somber and resolute, thus representing the gravity of their responsibility.
Norwegian Selbu star pattern
Greek mythology of Arachne
The Fates
traditional indigenous clothing
traditional indigenous clothing
As part of my research project around the Arctic Circle, I am curious as to the promotion and use of traditional indigenous textiles. What is worn, where, why and when... How they are made, what sources are used
Sámi (lapland)
The traditional Sami clothing is known as kofte in Norway or gákti in Northern Sámi, Gáppte/gábdde by Lule Sámi, and gaeptie, gåpta or gåptoeand by Southern Sami. the outfit has vibrant textiles adorned with silver, and reindeer leather.
This is worn by Sami peoples of all ages and genders. Today it is worn with pride, but like most indigenous cultures, they were threatened by forced intergration policies for many years (see my paper on Santa and the Saami). However through preserving traditions and being welcomed by a more inclusive society, it is again a symbol of nationality and pride.
The Kofte is worn many ways, originally made from reindeer leather and fur, it is now a wool, felt and cotton tunic with a belt, trousers (reindeer leather) and kommager (reindeer leather shoes).
REFERENCES
Arachne (2004) Cobwebs of Thought [eBook #13766] http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/7/6/13766
Ebers, G. (2006) Arachne, Complete. The Project Gutenberg EBook
Doja, A. (2005:p456) Mythology and Destiny, ANTHROPOS, 100.2005: 449-462 International Review of Anthropology and Linguistics
Nichol, A. (2014) Santa and the Saami; Ownership of heritage and reclaiming a cultural identity: SOAS
https://www.visitnorway.com/typically-norwegian/sami-people/kofte/#
Derwent Valley Cotton Mills
Derwent Valley Cotton Mills
The Derwent Valley Trust was set up in 1996 to promote the history, arts, wildlife that extends 55 miles along the River Derwent, www.derwentvalleytrust.org.uk.
The Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site comprises of historic textile mills and their local communities that run along the River. Some old mills are open as museums, showcasing the living and work conditions of the industrial revolution, others have been converted into workspaces and accommodation.
Being the epicentre of male enterprise, women and children were often overlooked and not acknowledged for their place in textile development. There are many more signigicant mills in this region relate to this research including Haarlem Mill, now a successful artist workspace. Litton Mill was once notorious for its treatment of women and children, it has now been converted into apartments.
The Heritage Way walking route passes by some significant mills including:
Via Gella
Masson Mills
Cromford Mills
Belper Mill
Milford Mill
Derby Alley Mill
Derby Silk Mill
Tour team at Masson Mills
Masson Mills, Matlock Bath
Masson Mills, Matlock Bath
Sir Richard Arkwright’s Masson Mill (1783) in Derbyshire, is a significant site within industrial history on an international scale. Many of the buildings along the Derwent River were originally designed and constructed with view of harnessing waterpower to spin cotton for the textile industries nationwide. This and other mills generated employment and contributed to the development of local industrial settlements, providing housing and further iconic structures, as can be seen in Matlock Bath and Cromford.
Masson Mills continued running as a cotton spinning factory from 1783 until 1991, when its final closure caused much disruption and disharmony to the local community. In 1993, the site gained planning permission to convert the Mill to museum, thanks to Mr Robert Aram who had built a vast collection of heritage textile machinery that would be exhibited and the World Heritage Funds contrbution to this project. In 1999 the mill opened as a museum and shopping centre, Edinburgh Woolen Mill on 22nd August 1999 and the textile museum the next day. In 2001 Masson Mills was registered as a World Heritage Site as part of the Derwent Valley Mills (whc.unesco.org) Chapman (2015).
The site closed down in 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic, it was purchased br Derwent Hydro Power Ltd (DHP), who use the power of the river to generate electricity, for the building and National Grid. Currently (2025) Masson Mills consists of a 'living history' Textile Museum which offers guided tours and self-exploratory visits with live demonstrations of the historic machinery; a visitor centre and café, DHP HQ, conference centre, and multi storey car park.
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